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Showing posts with label SreejanShilpa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SreejanShilpa. Show all posts
07:45

Questions To Prepare For A Fashion Design Jury

For a fashion design jury, you can expect questions that explore your design process, technical skills, conceptual thinking, and how effectively your design meets the project’s requirements. Here are some potential questions:


Concept and Inspiration


1. What was the inspiration behind your design?

2. How did you translate your inspiration into this collection?

3. Why did you choose this particular color palette, texture, and fabric?

4. How do you see your design fitting into current fashion trends or cultural contexts?


Design Process and Development


5. Can you walk us through your design process, from initial concept to the final piece?

6. What challenges did you encounter during the design process, and how did you overcome them?

7. How did you select and experiment with materials and techniques?

8. Can you explain any sustainable or ethical considerations you included in your design?


Technical Execution


9. What techniques did you use, and why did you select them?

10. Can you describe the construction methods and details in your garment?

11. How did you ensure a balance between aesthetics and functionality?

12. What considerations did you make for comfort, durability, or ease of movement?


Target Market and Wearability


13. Who is the target audience for this design?

14. How does your design cater to the lifestyle or needs of your target audience?

15. Is your design commercially viable? How would you position it?



11:27

Journaling Your Artistic Practice For Design

Journaling your artistic practice can be a powerful way to deepen your understanding of your creative process, track your growth, and generate fresh ideas.

ü By recording your inspirations, challenges, and techniques, you create a space for reflection and experimentation that fuels personal and artistic development.

ü Whether you're exploring new materials, setting creative goals, or reflecting on emotional influences in your work, journaling can help uncover insights that may otherwise remain hidden.

ü It's not just about documenting your journey—it's about creating a dialogue with your art, allowing you to explore new perspectives and push your boundaries.

Given here are 20 journaling ideas to explore your artistic practice:

1.     Daily Sketch Diary: Record sketches of objects, scenes, or patterns that inspire you. Note the thought process behind them.

2.     Inspiration Log: Track the artists, colors, themes, or techniques that inspire you, and why they resonate with your current work.

3.     Art Challenges: Document daily/weekly challenges where you experiment with new materials, techniques, or styles. Reflect on what you learn.

4.     Material Experiments: Record the different materials you try and their effects. Note textures, drying times, mixing results, and any surprises.

5.     Creative Block Solutions: Chronicle your creative struggles and how you overcome blocks, including what activities or thoughts help re-spark your creativity.

6.     Color Studies: Explore different color palettes and combinations. Jot down notes on how certain colors make you feel or affect the work’s mood.

7.     Mood and Art: Reflect on how your emotional state impacts your creative process. Journal about how your mood influences style, subject matter, or color.

8.     Feedback Log: After getting critiques or feedback on your work, note down the key takeaways and how you plan to incorporate them (or not).

9.     Art Goals and Milestones: Set specific, achievable goals for your art practice and document your progress. Reflect on the results when you meet these milestones.

10.                        Process Reflections: After completing a piece, reflect on your creative process. What worked well, and what would you change?

11.                        Visual Inspiration Board: Collect and document visual inspiration from your surroundings or online, noting why these visuals stand out to you.

12.                        Techniques Mastery: Focus on learning a new technique or tool and journal your learning curve, progress, and results.

13.                        Dream Art Ideas: Write down any dream or spontaneous art ideas that come to mind, no matter how abstract or unformed.

14.                        Creative Routines: Track your daily creative routine or lack of it. Analyze when you're most productive and what routines foster creativity.

15.                        Texture and Form Exploration: Experiment with different textures or forms and describe the visual and tactile effects they bring to your art.

16.                        Art Critique Journal: Attend exhibitions or critique other artworks, noting your observations, how they impact you, and what you can incorporate into your practice.

17.                        Personal Art Narrative: Chronicle the evolution of your personal style. Reflect on your influences, inspirations, and the message behind your art.

18.                        Art and Cultural Context: Document how your art relates to cultural themes, societal issues, or your heritage. Reflect on how these shape your work.

19.                        Reflection on Past Works: Look back on older works and note what you’ve learned or how your style has evolved since creating them.

20.                        Creative Inspirations from Nature: Journal about your interactions with the natural world and how it influences your themes, shapes, or color choices in your art.

These ideas will help you track your progress, develop self-awareness, and inspire new directions in your artistic journey.



Given here are 20 art journal prompts specifically for interior designers:

1.     Design Your Dream Room: Sketch or collage a room that represents your ideal personal space. What colors, materials, and styles do you choose, and why?

2.     Lighting Inspiration: Explore different types of lighting. How does natural light versus artificial light affect a space’s atmosphere? Sketch out ideas for innovative lighting solutions.

3.     Color Theory Exploration: Experiment with various color schemes. How do warm, cool, or monochromatic palettes influence the mood of a room?

4.     Texture and Material Studies: Collect or sketch different textures you love (wood, metal, fabric, etc.). How would you combine them in a cohesive space?

5.     Space Functionality: Think of a challenging space (small, awkward layout, etc.). How would you optimize it for functionality while maintaining aesthetics?

6.     Cultural Inspiration: Choose a culture or region that inspires you. Design a space incorporating key elements like textiles, patterns, or architecture from that culture.

7.     Mood Board Creation: Create a mood board for an upcoming project, using clippings, swatches, and sketches. Describe how each element contributes to the overall concept.

8.     Biophilic Design: Incorporate nature into a space design. How do plants, water features, or organic materials affect the ambiance and energy of the room?

9.     Furniture Design: Design a custom piece of furniture for a specific room. What problem does it solve, and how does it enhance the space’s functionality?

10.                        Sustainable Interiors: Research eco-friendly materials and design a space that focuses on sustainability. How do these choices impact the aesthetics and functionality?

11.                        Pattern Play: Experiment with mixing and matching patterns. Sketch how you would incorporate various patterns into a single space without overwhelming it.

12.                        Historic Interiors: Pick a historical design style (e.g., Art Deco, Mid-century Modern, Victorian) and reimagine it for a modern home. What elements would you preserve or update?

13.                        Minimalism vs. Maximalism: Design a minimalist room and then a maximalist version of the same space. Reflect on how the change in design philosophy alters the room’s feel.

14.                        Client Persona: Create a fictional client with specific tastes, needs, and lifestyle. Design a space that reflects their personality and daily routine.

15.                        Seasonal Redesign: Design a room that changes with the seasons. How would you adjust the decor, fabrics, and colors to reflect spring, summer, fall, and winter?

16.                        Small Space Solutions: Focus on small living spaces like tiny homes or apartments. How would you make them feel spacious, functional, and stylish?

17.                        Art in Interiors: Choose an artwork (painting, sculpture, etc.) and design a space around it. How does the artwork influence your choice of colors, furniture, and layout?

18.                        Balance and Harmony: Think about balance in a room's design. How do symmetry, scale, and proportion contribute to creating a harmonious space?

19.                        Bold Accents: Imagine a neutral room with one bold, statement piece (e.g., a vibrant sofa, art piece, or rug). How does this element transform the space?

20.                        Personal Style Evolution: Reflect on how your design aesthetic has evolved. Sketch or describe how your approach to interiors has changed over time and why.

These prompts will help you reflect on design challenges, explore new ideas, and expand your creative boundaries as an interior designer.




Given here are 20 art journal prompts specifically tailored for fashion designers:

1.     Dream Collection: Sketch your dream fashion collection. What themes, colors, and fabrics would you use? What story are you telling through this collection?

2.     Cultural Fusion: Design an outfit that fuses two distinct cultures. How do you combine traditional elements from each while maintaining balance?

3.     Fabric Exploration: Experiment with various fabric swatches or textures. How would each fabric move, feel, or change the silhouette of your designs?

4.     Nature-Inspired Fashion: Look to nature for inspiration. Sketch a garment or accessory inspired by flowers, landscapes, animals, or seasons.

5.     Color Palette Play: Create color palettes for a season or collection. How does each palette evoke a different mood or theme?

6.     Sustainable Fashion: Design a garment or collection with sustainability in mind. What materials, production methods, or design approaches would you prioritize?

7.     Historical Influence: Choose a historical period or style (e.g., 1920s flapper, 1980s punk) and design a modern piece inspired by it. How would you update it for today’s trends?

8.     Silhouette Experimentation: Play with unusual or exaggerated silhouettes. How can you push the boundaries of shape while maintaining wearability?

9.     Accessories Matter: Design a set of accessories (shoes, bags, jewelry) to complement a specific outfit. How do they enhance or complete the look?

10.                        Pattern Play: Design a collection that incorporates bold patterns or prints. How do the patterns influence the overall design, and how do you mix them?

11.                        Fashion for All: Create designs that prioritize inclusivity, such as plus-size fashion, adaptive clothing, or gender-neutral pieces. What adjustments do you make to standard designs?

12.                        Fabric Movement: Imagine how different fabrics move and drape. Sketch a design that emphasizes movement (e.g., flowy dresses, structured coats).

13.                        Mood Board for a Collection: Create a mood board for an upcoming season or theme. Include fabric swatches, color schemes, inspirational imagery, and key design elements.

14.                        Architectural Inspiration: Use architecture as inspiration for a fashion design. How do shapes, structures, or textures from buildings translate into garments?

15.                        Fantasy Fashion: Design a costume or collection for a fantasy or sci-fi world. What unconventional materials, shapes, or accessories would you incorporate?

16.                        Art as Fashion: Pick an artwork (painting, sculpture, or installation) and design an outfit inspired by it. How do you translate the art’s mood, color, or form into wearable fashion?

17.                        Design for a Celebrity: Choose a celebrity with a distinct style and design an outfit for them. How would your design reflect their personality and public image?

18.                        Upcycling Challenge: Take an old piece of clothing and redesign it into something new and modern. What changes or additions would you make to give it a fresh look?

19.                        Fashion Illustrations: Focus on refining your fashion illustration style. Practice different poses and expressions to bring your designs to life on the page.

20.                        Fashion Evolution: Reflect on your journey as a fashion designer. Sketch or describe how your design aesthetic has changed over time and what influences have shaped your current style.

These prompts are designed to ignite creativity, encourage exploration of new ideas, and help you reflect on your growth as a fashion designer.

 

 

 

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11:53

Interdependence of Craft and Fashion

 

The Interdependence of Craft and Fashion in India: A Personal Reflection

Dr Anindita Roy 

Living in India, we are surrounded by a vibrant tapestry of colors, patterns, and textures. From the bustling streets of Jaipur, where artisans meticulously carve wooden blocks for printing, to the serene villages of Andhra Pradesh, where ikat weavers dye their threads with skill and precision, we witness firsthand the seamless blend of craft and fashion.

This interdependence of traditional crafts and contemporary fashion is not just a hallmark of Indian culture but also a testament to the country's rich heritage and innovative spirit.

We can see that the Indian textiles can be broadly categorized into three main types: embroidery, prints, and weaves. Each category showcases a unique set of skills and traditions that have been passed down through generations, contributing to the rich tapestry of Indian fashion.

Embroidery: A Stitch in Time

Embroidery in India is not just an art form; it is a legacy passed down through generations. Techniques like kantha, chikankari, phulkari, aari, kashida, zardozi, and tilla are more than decorative arts—they are woven into the fabric of Indian life. These embroideries have found their way into the global fashion scene, adorning everything from haute couture to ready-to-wear collections.

  • Kantha: Originating from Bengal, this embroidery involves simple, running stitches to create elaborate patterns, often depicting daily life, flora, and fauna. Kantha has become a favorite in contemporary fashion, seen in quilts, saris, and even jackets.
  • Chikankari: This delicate and intricate embroidery from Lucknow involves fine thread work on muslin, cotton, and silk. Chikankari's elegance has made it a staple in modern fashion, gracing everything from kurtas to evening gowns.
  • Phulkari: Known for its vibrant and colorful floral motifs, Phulkari from Punjab is traditionally done on shawls and dupattas. Its bold patterns have been reimagined in contemporary fashion, adding a touch of Punjab's exuberance to global wardrobes.
  • Aari: This type of embroidery, involving a hooked needle, is prevalent in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Aari work is known for its fine, chain-stitch patterns and has been incorporated into modern fashion, embellishing everything from saris to handbags.
  • Kashida: From Kashmir, kashida embroidery features motifs inspired by nature, like birds, flowers, and trees. It is often done on wool and silk, creating luxurious shawls and garments that are treasured for their artistry.
  • Zardozi: This opulent embroidery uses metallic threads to create intricate patterns, often combined with pearls and gemstones. Originating from the Mughal era, zardozi is synonymous with bridal wear and couture, adding a regal touch to any outfit.
  • Tilla: Also from Kashmir, tilla embroidery involves using gold and silver threads to create intricate designs, primarily on Pashmina shawls and heavy bridal outfits. Its shimmering patterns have found a place in modern high fashion, bringing traditional glamour to contemporary designs.

Block Prints: A Symphony of Patterns

The rhythmic thud of wooden blocks against fabric is a sound that resonates with the history of Indian textiles. Block printing, with its roots in Rajasthan, produces the distinctive patterns of Bagru and Sanganeri prints. The earthy hues and bold motifs of Bagru prints, achieved using natural dyes and traditional methods, have an enduring charm. In contrast, Sanganeri prints, known for their fine lines and floral designs, offer a more delicate aesthetic. I recall my visits to the workshops in Jaipur, watching artisans dip wooden blocks into dye and press them onto fabric with an almost meditative focus. Today, these prints are celebrated in fashion circles worldwide, featured in everything from summer dresses to elegant scarves, seamlessly bridging the gap between tradition and contemporary style.

Nandana Hand-Block Printing: A Forgotten Art Revived

In the heartland of Madhya Pradesh, the Nandana hand-block printing technique has been a cherished tradition. This unique art form uses natural dyes to create intricate designs, often depicting flora and fauna.  The beauty of Nandana prints lies in their deep, rich colors and detailed patterns. These textiles have started to gain recognition in the fashion world, with designers incorporating them into modern silhouettes, thus preserving and celebrating this traditional craft.

Ikat: The Art of Resist Dyeing

Ikat weaving is a technique that never ceases to amaze me. The process involves dyeing the threads before they are woven, creating patterns that emerge like magic on the loom. In states like Odisha, Telangana, and Gujarat, ikat is a way of life. The vibrant, often geometric designs of ikat fabrics have a unique aesthetic that has captured the attention of fashion designers globally. I remember visiting Pochampally, a town renowned for its ikat weavers, and being mesmerized by the sheer complexity of the process. The resulting fabric, with its blurred, almost ethereal patterns, adds a touch of mystique to any garment, making it a favorite among fashion enthusiasts.

Himroo Weaving: A Blend of Cotton and Silk

Himroo weaving, originating from Aurangabad in Maharashtra, is a luxurious fabric traditionally woven with a blend of cotton and silk. The intricate designs, often inspired by Persian motifs, create a rich, textured fabric. Himroo shawls and saris have a royal elegance, making them a cherished addition to any wardrobe.  The resurgence of Himroo in contemporary fashion is a testament to its timeless appeal and the skill of the artisans who continue to produce this exquisite fabric.

Siddipet Gollabama Weaving: Crafting Heritage

The town of Siddipet in Telangana is renowned for its Gollabama saris, named after the 'Gollabama' motif that depicts a cowherd girl. These saris are known for their unique patterns and vibrant colors. The Gollabama motif, painstakingly woven into the fabric, tells a story of rural life and tradition. Today, Gollabama saris are gaining popularity, not just as traditional attire but also as fashionable statements that celebrate Indian heritage.

Guledgudd Khana: Traditional Elegance

Guledgudd, a small town in Karnataka, is famous for its Khana fabric, traditionally used for making blouses. The fabric is known for its bold colors and patterns, often featuring geometric and floral designs. The Guledgudd Khana fabric has been embraced by fashion designers, who have transformed it into contemporary outfits like jackets, dresses, and skirts, bringing this traditional craft to a global audience.

Ilkal Weaving: A Legacy of Craftsmanship

Ilkal, also in Karnataka, is renowned for its handwoven saris. The distinctive feature of Ilkal saris is the contrast border and pallu, often woven with intricate patterns. The weaving technique involves a unique method called 'tope teni,' which ensures the sari's durability and vibrant color. My admiration for Ilkal saris grew after visiting the weavers who dedicate their lives to perfecting this craft. These saris are now a favorite among fashion enthusiasts looking for something uniquely Indian yet modern.

Lambadi/Banjara Embroidery: A Riot of Colors

The Lambadi or Banjara community, originally nomadic, is known for its vibrant and intricate embroidery. This craft involves using bright threads, mirrors, and beads to create elaborate patterns. The sheer vibrancy and detail of their work were mesmerizing. Lambadi embroidery has found a place in contemporary fashion, with designers incorporating it into jackets, skirts, and accessories, bringing a touch of ethnic charm to modern outfits.

Molakalmuru Silk Weaving: Regal Splendor

Molakalmuru, a town in Karnataka, is famous for its silk saris, known for their fine texture and intricate motifs. The weaving process is meticulous, with artisans dedicating weeks to complete a single sari. The regal splendor of Molakalmuru silk saris, with their rich colors and detailed designs, makes them a prized possession. Fashion designers have begun to experiment with Molakalmuru silk, creating contemporary pieces that maintain the traditional essence while appealing to modern tastes.

The Symbiotic Relationship

The relationship between craft and fashion in India is symbiotic, each nourishing and evolving with the other. Traditional crafts provide a rich repository of techniques and aesthetics that fashion designers draw upon to create innovative and unique designs. In turn, the fashion industry offers these crafts a broader platform and a global audience, ensuring their survival and adaptation in a rapidly changing world.

As I look around, I see how the interplay of craft and fashion has shaped not just the clothing we wear but also our cultural identity. It is heartening to see young designers embracing traditional crafts, infusing them with new life, and ensuring that the artisans' skills are honored and preserved. This interdependence of craft and fashion is a dynamic dance that celebrates India's rich heritage while continually pushing the boundaries of creativity.

In conclusion, the world of Indian textiles is a vivid mosaic of tradition and innovation. Each thread, each pattern, and each technique tells a story of a timeless craft interwoven with the contemporary currents of fashion. As an observer and participant in this beautiful confluence, I am constantly inspired by the resilience and creativity that define the interdependence of craft and fashion in India.

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20:53

India Architecture

Referring to the architectural heritage of undivided India, Lord Curzon once commented that it was 'the greatest galaxy of monuments in the world'. 

The story of this 'greatest galaxy of monuments' goes back to the pre-historic times when early humans did their rudimentary constructions; the form developed into a full-fledged architecture towards the beginning of Christian Era and the Indian architecture reached its zenith during the early medieval times with temple architecture. With the dawn of the medieval times came the Muslim influence and the two great styles were attempted to be merged. This experiment at fusion was fully realised during the reign of the mighty Mughals in the so-called 'Mughal Architecture'. While the Mughal style was still diffusing to other parts of the country the British had also arrived in India; whatever might be the economic and political repercussions of their entry into the subcontinent, as far as architecture is concerned, they made their own contribution to the already rich Indian architecture.

Indian architecture was essentially a product of the soil, and whatever touched it in its long course of development practically grew into it giving it new form and colour in each successive phase.

Pre-historic and Proto-historic Architecture:
The earliest remains of construction in India may be traced back to pre-historic times, evidence of which are found in Baluchistan and Sind (now in Pakistan), Bhimbetaka (Madhya Pradesh), Kashmir and other parts of Indian subcontinent. The construction activities at these places is of rudimentary nature as the humans before the dawn of civilization lived in natural caves and their artistic expressions were limited to paintings on the cave walls and decorations on tools and implements.

The construction activities got a major impetus with the urbanization of the plains of the Indus and its tributary rivers. This urbanization, widely known as Indus Valley Civilization or Harappan Culture, experienced its mature phase between 2500 B.C and 2000 B.C. While the most remarkable feature of the culture was its town planning and advanced knowledge of building and construction techniques, the architects of the civilization seem to have made no large structures (barring The Great Bath at Mohenjodaro, a few store houses and some palatial buildings). The Harappans' buildings were essentially of utilitarian nature and of little aesthetic merit unlike their contemporary civilizations. In India the Harappan sites are mainly found in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Haryana and Uttar Pradesh. The prominent sites of Gujarat include Dholavira, Gola Dhoro, Lothal, Surkotada, Bhagatrav, Rangpur, etc. In Haryana the important sites are Rakhigarhi and Banawali. One of the most important sites of Harappan Civilization is found in Rajasthan at Kalibangan. The Eastern fringe of Harappan civilization included sites of Alamgirpur, Bargaon and Hulas in the state of Uttar Pradesh. The northern-most site in India was at Rupar in Punjab.

With the Harappans also collapsed the urban culture and consequently a lull set in as far the building activities are concerned. This lull continues till the dawn of the so-called 'second urbanization' in Indian history around 600 B.C. and from now onwards it is possible to trace the history of Indian architecture in an almost unbroken sequence. Though building activities started again from 6th century Before Christ; still very few buildings were made of stone as the main building materials were wood and bricks in the Gangetic plains — the centre of the civilization at the time. The evidence of building activities during the period is largely dependent on literary records and only rarely are there archaeological remains to provide corroborative evidence. However, Ashoka, the great Mauryan king, was already leaving large stone columns with finely carved capitals for all times to come. The transition from wood and bricks to stone was round the corner....

From Early India to Medieval Times:
The Mauryan rulers extended the centre of civilization to outside the Gangetic plains as far as the Tamil country in the peninsular India. The expansion of empire, the relative prosperity and stability, the rise of Buddhism, Jainism and the sectarian cults of Hinduism — all contributed to the development of a number of architectural forms. This new fervour in architecture was particularly manifested in the religious structures, such as stupas and caves temples; later free standing temples came to be 'the norm' for artistic expression in architecture. As for secular structures, though they were built but the architects devoted much of their time and energy in creating religious structures.

Stupa: The stupa began as a hemispherical earthen burial mound built over the remains of a religious teacher or holy man. The cult of stupa was taken up by Buddhism, and, Ashoka Maurya raised a large number of stupas over the relics of the Buddha all over India. During the period between the Mauryas and the Guptas as Buddhism grew and won patronage of powerful kings, the older mud mounds were greatly enlarged and sheathed with stone.

The original wooden fencing was replaced with elaborate stone railings and ornate gateways (torans). Of these early stupas three are especially noteworthy — those at Bharhut and Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh and at Amaravati in Andhra Pradesh. Of the later stupas the two most famous are those of Sarnath and Nalanda.

Cave Temples (Chaityas & Viharas):
Of the centuries before the Gupta period the chief architectural remains, other than stupas and their surrounding gateways and railings, were artificial caves. These caves were excavated for preaching monks to rest during the monsoon period; though later these were occupied throughout the year and became institutions in themselves. The caves may be divided into two parts: chaityas or prayer halls, and, attached with each hall were a number of other caves meant for the monks' lodging and were called the viharas or monasteries.

The chaitya shrine in its typical form was a long rectangular hall, apsidal at the rear end and divided into three sections by two rows of pillars along the length of the hall meeting at the back end. The rock-hewn monasteries (viharas) typically have three ranges of cells on three sides of a central hall opening out into a pillared gallery in front. Earliest of these cave temples are found in Barabar Hill in Bihar, dedicated to Ajivikas by Ashoka Maurya. Gradually the cave temples form spread to many parts of India and flourished greatly in Western Deccan.

Though the oldest of Deccan cave is at Bhaja near Pune, the cave temple form matured with the great chaitya hall at Karle (excavated around the beginning of the Christian era). This is cut 124 feet deep into the rock, and is of the same general pattern as that at Bhaja, but much developed in size and splendour. The columns are no longer plain and austere but are heavy and ornate. The simple facades of the earlier caves were developed into elaborately carved verandahs.

However, the most famous of cave groups are those of Ajanta (2nd to 7th century A.D) and Ellora (5th to 8th century A.D). Besides, there are a number of caves found at Kondane, Pitalkhora, Bedsa, Nasik, Kanheri, etc. The latest of cave temples of importance are those of Elephanta near Bombay. After these no important caves were excavated...but then great period of medieval temple building had begun.

Free Standing Temples:
Perhaps the highest achievement of Indian architecture is manifested in the free standing temples. Beginning modestly, it was through a progressive movement spread over centuries that the distinctive styles and forms of free standing temples took definite shape.

From literary evidence we gather that deva-grahas (houses of gods) existed as early as 2nd century B.C. That these temples were built of perishable materials is reflected in the fact that archaeological remains of the period are in fragmentary state. It was from the Gupta period that the practice of building with lasting materials ushered in. Typically, the Gupta temples were small, most had flat roofs and the masonry was held together without mortar. The finest Gupta temple, that of Deogarh near Jhansi, probably of the 6th century, marks a great advance. Here iron dowels were used to hold the masonry together, and a small tower rose above the sanctum. The portal veranda was continued all round the building, making a covered walk. Though still in the formative stage and structures were rather simple and unpretentious, the Gupta temple styles had tremendous bearing upon later development of free standing temples.

With the breakdown of the Gupta Empire, the smaller kingdoms acquired the principles of temple constructions and made their own peculiar additions to form their local variations of the original style. And, thus developed the great Indian temples architecture throughout the country and new temples sprang up everywhere and kings and chiefs vied with one another in their foundation. Considering the size of the land, this Indian temple architecture is remarkably uniform, but scholars distinguish two chief styles — Northern or Nagara style and Southern or Dravidian style.

The Nagara style is best illustrated by three schools — those of Orissa, Bundelkhand and Rajasthan-Gujarat. Though each of these sub schools follows the basic principles of Nagara styles, they also made their own alternations to the main style.

The Orissan School flourished from the 8th to the 13th centuries, and its chief monuments lie in and around the towns of Bhubaneshwar and Puri. The finest Orissan temple is the Lingaraja at Bubaneshwar. Like most Orissan temples, it is built as a series of four halls — a hall of offerings, a dancing hall, an assembly hall and a sanctuary. The sanctuary is crowned by the great tower, but the other three elements of the temple, leading one by one to the shrine, are also roofed with characteristic towers of smaller size. The Lingaraja Temple also shows the North Indian shikhara in its final form — a tower which begins to curve inwards at about one third of its height, with rounded top crowned by a flat stone disc (amalaka) and a kalasa. Among the other important Orissan temples are the Temple of Jagannath at Puri and the Temple of Black Pagoda of Konark. The Orissan architects were lavish with their exterior decoration, and their sculptors produced works of great merit, but the interiors of their temples were unadorned.

Under the Chandela kings of Bundelkhand a great school of architecture flourished in the 10th and 11th centuries, the chief work of which is a beautiful group of temples at Khajuraho. The standard type of Khajuraho temple contains a shrine-room, an assembly hall and an entrance portico. Whereas in Orissan temple these elements were conceived rather as separate entities, the Khajuraho architects treated them as a whole. In contrast to Orissa, the temples at Khajuraho were adorned with sculpture both outside and inside.

The Western school of Gujarat and Rajasthan reached its zenith under the patronage of the Solanki rulers of Gujarat (11th to 13th centuries). The most famous buildings of this school are the lovely Jain shrines of Dilwara at Mount Abu. The temples were built on high platforms and usually consisted of a shrine and hall only, without an entrance portico. The shikhara, over the shrine, like those of Khajuraho, was adorned with a large number of miniature towers, and the ceilings were in the form of corbelled domes. Perhaps these ceilings were carved so as to give the impression of a true dome which was gradually being introduced by the Muslims in India. The shrines of Mount Abu are covered with the most delicate and ornate carving, especially in the interiors. Among the many temples in Gujarat and Rajasthan, another noteworthy representation is the impressive ruins of the Sun temple at Modhera.

In South India, temple building gained much from the patronage of the Pallava and Chalukya kings from the 6th to 8th centuries. Important early temples of the former dynasty are to be found at Mamallapuram and Kanchipuram, while the Chalukyas left temple remains at their capital Badami and at the nearby site of Aihole. The style of the Pallavas was developed further under the Chola dynasty (10-12th centuries); their finest products are the temples at Tanjore and Gangai-konda-chola-puram. The former was probably the largest temple built in India up to that time; the comparatively modest tower of the Pallava style was replaced by a great pyramid, rising from a tall upright base and crowned with a domed filial. This set the style of the Dravidian sikhara, which has continued with some variation down to the present day. Both these temples contain elaborate pillared halls and beautiful decoration.

In the next phase of Dravidian architecture the emphasis shifted from the tower above the chief shrine to the entrance gateway of the surrounding wall — perhaps it was done in imitation of the palaces of kings, with which the temples had much in common. From the 12th century onwards it became usual to fortify the temple with gates on the four sides. The gates were surmounted by watch-towers, and these developed into soaring towers (gopurams), generally much taller than the modest shikhara over the central shrine. The new style is often called Pandyan, after the name of the dynasty which supplanted the Cholas in the Tamil country. The culmination of this Pandyan style is to be seen in the mighty temples of Madurai, Srirangam and other places.

While these developments were taking place in the Tamil country, other styles developed in the Deccan, under the Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas and Hoyasalas. The earliest Chalukyan temples closely resemble the Guptan. The later Chalukyas and Hoyasalas (11-14th centuries) developed a more elaborate style. Their temples were no longer constructed on a rectangular plan, but were polygonal, raised on tall solid platforms of the same shape as the buildings. The largest and most famous temples of this styles are at Belur and Halebid.

The school which flourished under the Vijayanagara Empire and reached its apogee in the 16th century shows both Pandyan and Hoyasala features. The florid carving of the Hoyasalas was developed with even greater exuberance, and new elements appeared in the temple complex. As well as the main shrine, in every important temple in South India the amman, the god's chief wife, was provided with a shrine which was nearly as large as the main shrine itself, and a marriage-hall (kalyanamandapam), wherein the icons of god and goddess were ceremonially united on festival days. Another feature of the Vijayanagar style is the profusion carving which adorns the pillared halls. The finest production of Vijayanagara style is the Vitthala Temple of Hampi.

The Sultanate and Mughal Period:
A rich variety of buildings and monuments came to be constructed in India through the patronage of Turkish, Mughal and other Muslim rulers between 12th and 18th century. These cannot strictly be described as specimens of Muslim architecture as they are as much the work of India's hereditary craftsmen as of the alien artisans who came with the invaders. It will, therefore, be appropriate to regard this phase of building as a development of Indian architecture under Muslim influence.

The Turko-Afghan rulers and generals began their campaigns into India towards the end of the 12th century and had set up Sultanate by the beginning of the 13th. These kings who followed one another in quick succession, erected splendid victory-towers, impregnable forts, luxurious palaces, mosques and mausoleums — both at Delhi and at the provincial capitals.

While still in the process of consolidating their power, from 1200 to 1246 A.D., they simply converted the existing religious structures into improvised mosques. They only had to remove the existing structures in the middle and erect a new wall on the west, adorned with mihrabs pointing the way to Mecca. The Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque in Delhi and the Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra at Ajmer were built mainly out of the old Jain and Hindu temples. The next monument in this hierarchy is the Qutab Minar — a giant minaret of 73.76 m. The tomb of Iltutmish is a fine example of Indian work under Islamic patronage. In the same vicinity, Alauddin Khalji had a structure built, which shows that, by this time, Indian craftsmen had mastered the alien styles of decoration. Also, the 'true arch' form is introduced here.

The rugged simplicity of the Turks re-asserted itself later in the Tughlaqabad Fort, constructed by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq in 1321 A.D. There was great building activity under Firuz Tughlaq; but in the Firuz Shah Kotla and the mausoleum at Hauz Khas, there is simplicity due to a not-too-rich treasury. The Lodi tombs are more bare than even the Tughlaq mausoleums. This was due to the fact the kingdom was quite unstable from A.D. 1414 to 1526 and money was scarce. Sher Shah's tomb is the last of the series of Turkish burial places. It is more elaborate than the Tughlaq or Lodi memorials, but is still quite rugged.

The ruggedness of the Turko-Afghan architecture was mellowed in the Muslim provincial kingdoms through the more intimate contact which the Sultans established with local traditions. The earliest mosque at Jaunpur is distinguished by a number of carved pillars, which were obviously taken from a temple. The Lal Darwaza mosque and the lovely Atala Masjid owe much more to the Indian styles. In Gujarat, Sultan Ahmad adorned Ahmedabad with most splendid buildings which, in style and detail, are counterparts of the temples of the neighbourings areas. In the city of Mandu a great mosque was built by Hoshang. The techniques of Hindu, Jain and Muslims styles are again mixed in the structure, but there is superimposed on the whole a reflection of the power of the Sultans. Similarly, in the architecture of Gaur, the old capital of the Muslims in Bengal, the main cue came from local styles.

In the Southern kingdoms of the Muslims too, a large number of monuments were built. The large mosque of Gulbarga, erected in the 14th century, is a unique piece of architecture. This is the only mosque in India which is wholly covered over, the light being admitted through the side-walls which are pierced with great arches. During the reign of the Adil Shahi Sultans of Bijapur, building activity received a major impetus.

Notable among the constructions in Bijapur is the Jami Masjid, created out of the remains of Hindu structures, but never completed. Ibrahim Adil Shah took care that his tomb was finished in his lifetime; the entire Quran was engraved on its walls and the skill of South Indian craftsmen was ably used in its construction and ornamentation.

There is very little difference between the styles which matured under the Turko-Afghan kings and the Sultans who ruled in various parts of India and the later styles perfected in Mughal times, except the Mughal architecture is more elaborate and the synthesis of Hindu and Muslim elements in it is complete. The tomb of Humayun, for instance, is almost a final development of the style which had begun with the Qutab group of buildings and passed through the rough Lodi monuments and Sher Shah mausoleum. The Persian artisans, whom Humayun brought to India, contributed frescoes of their own, bringing in finesse in construction. The material also became finer between A.D. 1540 and 1685.

If Humayun's tomb is still slightly eclectic, the genius of Akbar, the Great Mughal, combined the foreign and indigenous elements completely. This is evident in Fatehpur Sikri's buildings and Akbar's own mausoleum at Sikandara. Akbar's son Jahangir carried on his father's tradition, building two mosques at Lahore and his own mausoleum near Lahore. The most glorious building of his reign is the tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah at Agra. Built entirely of white marble and covered throughout with mosaic, it marks the beginning of what has been called the Indo-Islamic 'baroque' style.

Shah Jahan, as governor of Gujarat, probably acquired his love of fine buildings from the gems of architecture created by Sultan Ahmad. Those early impressions mingled with his own delicate and sensuous imagination. He brought the same delicacy and love of marble to the Taj Mahal which was built in the memory of his consort, Mumtaz Mahal. The Moti Masjid at Agra is another elegant construction typical of Shah Jahan's concept. The Jami Masjid in Delhi outshines all other buildings of its kind. The Red Fort at Delhi — also a replica of the fort at Agra — also reveals Shah Jahan's sensibility.

After Shah Jahan, the buildings ordered by members of the Mughal dynasty, are mostly in a minor key. Though the Mughal nobility took the Mughal style to their provinces but they could not match the work of the great Mughals and the Indo-Muslim architectural tradition as developed during the mighty Mughals was clearly in decadence.

Modern Times (The Contribution Of The British):
Though by the beginning of the 19th century the British had occupied a great part of the country, the architectural contribution of the British began after the 'great mutiny' of 1857 when their political power was firmly established. It took the form mostly of country-houses, travellers' bungalows, churches, office buildings, etc which stand all over the country. Their style represents a mixture of the ideas evolved by the British military engineers and civil architects. The architectural styles of these structures include the Greco-Roman, Scottish, Gothic, etc. combined with Indian styles.

In December 1911, King George-V proclaimed the transfer of the capital of India from Calcutta to Delhi. In 1912, Lord Hardinge deputed Sir E. Lutyens to select a site for the central buildings. The team recommended the Raisina Hill, a slight elevation south of Delhi, as the ideal site. In 1913, Sir Herbert Baker joined Lutyens as collaborator and was made responsible for the Legislative Council building and the Secretariat, while Lutyens concentrated on the Viceroy's house.

The founding of New Delhi was a measure of imperial policy towards the ideal of establishing a monumental architectural expression of British imperial might. There was much extravagance and some sacrifice of comfort to outward grandeur, some pretentious borrowings of Islamic pavilions and Buddhist railings, some imitation of Hindu ornaments and brackets. Yet it must be said that Lutyens added the refinement of ancient Indian architecture to the ostentation and magnificence expressive of the imperial majesty and power.

The Central Secretariat complex, extending from the Viceregal Lodge (now Rashtrapati Bhawan), is even today one of the best examples of large scale urban design for boldness of conception as well as actual realisation. The architectural integrity of the whole complex, besides its harmony in scale and composition, is a tribute to its great architect, Sir E. Lutyens. The Viceregal Lodge presents the peculiar English splendour, expressing, perhaps for the last time, the "spirit of aristocracy in the language of a dwelling".

The outstanding examples of late baroque-style Christian churches in Goa deserve special mention besides the Cathedral at Shimla, many old churches in Madras and the St. Paul's Cathedral at Calcutta built by Bishop Wilson at his own expense. Victoria Memorial, the noblest monument in Calcutta, is built of white Jodhpur marble.

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