MASTER LIST OF FABRICS

 

📘 MASTER LIST OF FABRICS (With Simple Explanations)

Textiles form the foundation of the apparel industry, influencing design, comfort, cost, and quality of garments. A basic understanding of fabric sources, manufacturing processes, surface treatments, and quality parameters is essential for students pursuing studies in fashion, textile, and apparel design. 

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I. WOVEN FABRICS – BASIC STRUCTURES

1. Plain Weave Fabrics

(Simple over-one, under-one weave)

• Cotton (Cambric / Poplin) – Lightweight, breathable, everyday fabric
• Muslin – Very fine, soft plain weave cotton
• Khadi – Handspun, handwoven cotton or silk
• Organza – Crisp, transparent plain weave silk/synthetic
• Voile – Soft, sheer cotton
• Chiffon – Lightweight, transparent fabric (silk/poly)

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2. Twill Weave Fabrics

(Diagonal lines visible)

• Denim – Strong cotton twill, used in jeans
• Gabardine – Tight twill, used in trousers, uniforms
• Drill – Heavy cotton twill
• Serge – Wool twill used in suiting
• Herringbone – Zigzag twill pattern

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3. Satin / Sateen Weave Fabrics

(Smooth surface, high lustre)

• Satin – Warp-faced, glossy silk/synthetic
• Sateen – Weft-faced satin weave (cotton)
• Duchess Satin – Heavy, luxurious satin
• Charmeuse – Lightweight satin with dull back

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II. WOVEN FABRICS – DECORATIVE / COMPLEX

4. Jacquard Fabrics

(Pattern woven directly into fabric using Jacquard loom)

• Jacquard – Large intricate designs
• Damask – Reversible patterned jacquard
• Brocade – Raised patterns using extra weft threads
• Matelassé – Quilted, embossed appearance
• Tapestry – Heavy pictorial woven fabric

📌 Key exam line:

Design is woven, not printed or embroidered.

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5. Dobby Fabrics

(Small repeating geometric patterns)

• Dobby Cotton – Textured surface
• Piqué – Raised cords or waffles (used in polo shirts)
• Bird’s Eye – Small diamond texture

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III. PILE FABRICS (Surface loops or cut pile)

6. Pile Woven Fabrics

• Velvet – Soft cut pile, luxurious
• Velour – Knit or woven velvet-like
• Corduroy – Ribbed cut pile fabric
• Terry Cloth – Loop pile (towels)
• Chenille – Fuzzy yarn creates pile effect

📌 Chenille = yarn-based pile, not weave-based.

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IV. KNITTED FABRICS

7. Weft Knits

(Stretchy, comfortable)

• Jersey – T-shirt fabric
• Rib Knit – Vertical ribs, high stretch
• Interlock – Smooth, stable knit
• French Terry – Loops on back, sweatshirts

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8. Warp Knits

(Stable, less stretch)

• Tricot – Fine, smooth knit
• Raschel – Lace, net, heavy knits
• Warp Lace – Lingerie fabrics

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V. NON-WOVEN FABRICS

• Felt – Pressed fibres, no yarn
• Interlining – Used inside garments
• Geotextiles – Construction fabrics
• Medical Non-wovens – Masks, PPE

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VI. SPECIAL SURFACE-FINISH FABRICS

9. Textured / Crepe Fabrics

• Crepe – Crinkled surface due to twisted yarns
• Georgette – Lightweight crepe silk
• Bubble Crepe – Highly textured
• Plissé – Heat-set pleated fabric

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10. Sheer / Transparent Fabrics

• Net / Tulle – Open mesh
• Lace – Decorative openwork
• Organza – Crisp sheer
• Chiffon – Soft sheer

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VII. ETHNIC & TRADITIONAL FABRICS (INDIA)

• Banarasi Brocade – Gold/silver zari weaving
• Kanchipuram Silk – Heavy silk with contrast borders
• Chanderi – Silk-cotton, sheer
• Maheshwari – Reversible borders
• Patola – Double ikat silk
• Paithani – Tapestry-style brocade
• Jamdani – Extra weft motifs

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VIII. FUNCTIONAL & MODERN FABRICS

• Taffeta – Crisp plain weave
• Poplin – Fine rib plain weave
• Oxford – Basket weave shirting
• Microfiber – Very fine synthetic fibres
• Polar Fleece – Warm knit fleece
• Softshell – Technical outdoor fabric

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IX. EXAM QUICK DIFFERENTIATORS (VERY IMPORTANT)

Fabric	Key Identification
Jacquard	Design woven into fabric
Brocade	Raised design, extra weft
Damask	Reversible jacquard
Chenille	Fuzzy yarn
Velvet	Cut pile
Dobby	Small geometric weave
Crepe	Crinkled texture
Georgette	Lightweight crepe

📌 Important reminder for students:
Jacquard, brocade, chenille etc. are NOT fibres — they are FABRIC / WEAVE / YARN TECHNIQUES.
So they can be made from more than one fibre type.

 

📘 FABRICS CLASSIFIED BY FIBRE TYPE

(Organic / Synthetic / Blended)

 

I. BASIC WOVEN FABRICS

1️⃣ Cotton / Plant-based (ORGANIC / NATURAL)

Fabric	Fibre Type	Explanation
Cotton (Cambric, Poplin)	Organic	Plain weave cotton
Muslin	Organic	Fine plain weave cotton
Khadi	Organic	Handspun cotton/silk
Voile	Organic	Soft, sheer cotton
Drill	Organic	Heavy cotton twill
Denim	Organic	Cotton twill
Oxford	Organic	Basket weave cotton
Chanderi (cotton-silk)	Blend	Cotton + silk
Maheshwari	Blend	Cotton + silk

 

2️⃣ Silk / Animal-based (ORGANIC / NATURAL)

Fabric	Fibre Type	Explanation
Silk Satin	Organic	Smooth glossy silk
Organza (Silk)	Organic	Crisp sheer silk
Chiffon (Silk)	Organic	Soft transparent
Georgette (Silk)	Organic	Crepe silk
Banarasi Brocade	Organic	Silk + zari
Paithani	Organic	Tapestry silk
Jamdani	Organic	Fine cotton or silk

 

3️⃣ Wool-based (ORGANIC / NATURAL)

Fabric	Fibre Type	Explanation
Serge	Organic	Wool twill
Tweed	Organic	Rough wool fabric
Flannel	Organic	Brushed wool

 

II. DECORATIVE / COMPLEX WOVEN FABRICS

(Can be organic, synthetic, or blended)

4️⃣ Jacquard Family

Fabric	Fibre Type
Jacquard	Organic / Synthetic / Blend
Damask	Organic / Synthetic / Blend
Brocade	Organic / Synthetic / Blend
Matelassé	Organic / Synthetic / Blend
Tapestry	Organic / Synthetic / Blend

📌 Fibre depends on usage: silk, cotton, polyester, rayon.

 

5️⃣ Dobby Fabrics

Fabric	Fibre Type
Dobby Cotton	Organic
Piqué	Organic / Blend
Bird’s Eye	Organic / Blend

 

III. PILE FABRICS

Fabric	Fibre Type	Explanation
Velvet (Silk)	Organic	Cut pile silk
Velvet (Poly)	Synthetic	Affordable velvet
Velour	Synthetic / Blend	Knit pile
Corduroy	Organic	Cotton pile
Terry Cloth	Organic / Blend	Cotton / cotton-poly
Chenille	Organic / Synthetic / Blend	Fuzzy yarn

 

IV. KNITTED FABRICS

6️⃣ Natural Knits

Fabric	Fibre Type
Jersey (Cotton)	Organic
Rib Knit	Organic
Interlock	Organic
French Terry	Organic

 

7️⃣ Synthetic Knits

Fabric	Fibre Type
Tricot	Synthetic
Raschel	Synthetic
Warp Lace	Synthetic
Polar Fleece	Synthetic

 

V. NON-WOVEN FABRICS

Fabric	Fibre Type
Felt (Wool)	Organic
Felt (Poly)	Synthetic
Interlining	Synthetic
Geotextiles	Synthetic
Medical Non-wovens	Synthetic

 

VI. TEXTURED / CREPE FABRICS

Fabric	Fibre Type
Crepe (Silk)	Organic
Crepe (Poly)	Synthetic
Georgette (Poly)	Synthetic
Bubble Crepe	Synthetic
Plissé	Synthetic / Blend

 

VII. SHEER / TRANSPARENT FABRICS

Fabric	Fibre Type
Net / Tulle	Synthetic
Lace	Organic / Synthetic / Blend
Organza (Poly)	Synthetic
Chiffon (Poly)	Synthetic

 

VIII. MODERN / TECHNICAL FABRICS

Fabric	Fibre Type
Microfiber	Synthetic
Softshell	Synthetic
Nylon Taffeta	Synthetic
Polyester Poplin	Synthetic
Viscose Rayon	Semi-synthetic
Modal / Lyocell (Tencel)	Semi-synthetic

📌 Rayon = regenerated cellulose (often asked separately).

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🔑 EXAM GOLDEN RULES (MEMORISE)

✔ Organic / Natural fibres: Cotton, silk, wool
✔ Synthetic fibres: Polyester, nylon, acrylic
✔ Semi-synthetic: Rayon, modal, lyocell
✔ Jacquard / Brocade / Dobby / Chenille = construction technique, not fibre
✔ Blend fabrics improve strength, cost & care